My flight got cancelled. Yup. I knew from the start that this traveling thing came with its fair share of trouble, but never expected it to be here so soon. It seems there was a problem with the travel agency that booked my trip to San Francisco, so I got stuck in Mexico City for two more days. Luckily, my friend Betty and her cousin didn’t mind me staying a bit longer in their flat. They said they enjoyed my company. Also, I made them cookies.
So, with a couple of extra days in my hands, I decided I’ve had enough of museums, libraries and ancient archeological sites. After all my cultural experiences, I was ready for a different kind of fun.
I’d heard here and there about a series of secret bars hidden in the city. Apparently, Speakeasy bars are a thing in Mexico at the moment. So I thought it was the perfect opportunity to get into one of them. Most of these bars find their inspiration in the prohibition era, back when alcoholic beverages were forbidden. You can find these babies in the most unexpected places: behind a bookshelf, a bathroom door or, in the case of my personal choice, inside a refrigerator.
Three psychiatrists and a blogger walk into a bar
Jules Basement is one of the most emblematic speakeasy bars in Mexico City and, obviously, I had to try it. It is really hard to get a table if you don’t have a reservation, so I’d highly recommend to book in advance. They send you an email to confirm but give you no indications whatsoever (which, I guess, its part of the fun). So when Betty and I arrived to the address and found a Taco place instead, we were a bit confused.
The outside looks like your typical traditional Mexican food restaurant. There are no signs of a bar inside it and, after a while, you actually start doubting if you are in the right place. Hesitantly, Betty and I approached to the hostess and asked about Jules Basement. In response we got an enigmatic grin and the indication to approach to a man in a suit right next to the kitchen. The man in question was guarding this industrial refrigerator door and asked for our reservation name. He made us wait outside for several minutes, until he finally opened the door and revealed a dark, steep staircase which led to the hidden bar.
After the initial surprise, we found out that the place was amazing! It had a very dark ambiance, lit only by a few low bulbs. All the tables had a skull-shaped base and the menu was full of original cocktails and mixes. They do not let you order a drink unless you order food as well. They have a nice selection of Mexican dishes and seafood and we were starving, so we didn’t mind that much. But it’s good to keep that in mind, since everything it’s a bit pricey.
I ordered and Autumn Sweater, a whisky based drink mixed with vanilla, vermouth and cherry, while we waited for Betty’s friends and her cousin. When the rest of the doctor’s squad joined us, we had a lot of fun ordering different drinks. Don’t let them deceive you. Psychiatrists may say a lot of doctor’s jokes and speak in fancy medical terms even when drunk, but they sure know how to party.
We ordered several gin-based cocktails, artisanal beers and even a rum beverage that was set on fire. Also, we added some quesadillas with squash blossoms, pastor tacos and a shrimp ceviche. The food was delicious and although we liked some cocktails better than others, the overall impression was quite good. Besides, experimenting with the drinks is part of Jules Basement appeal!
There was DJ when we visited it, but every Tuesday and some Sundays they have a live jazz band. I guess this extra detail must make the place even more memorable, but I can’t really complain. To be my first speakeasy bar, I think Jules Basement was definitely a highlight of my Mexico City trip.
The Dark side of the Ice Cream
As I said before, my overtime in the capital was a “boozy” one. When I asked my lovely hosts which places I shouldn’t miss, Betty’s cousin, Alba, immediately suggested Helado Oscuro (it is a word game in Spanish that kind of means “The Dark Side”). The place is an ice cream shop in Roma neighbourhood, and they sell your typical chocolate cone… Only with vodka.
Helado Oscuro specializes in alcoholic ice cream and popsicles. Their options include vodka, rum, brandy, whisky, wine and, of course, tequila and mescal mixes. They have a couple of non-alcoholic cones, but, seriously, why would you go there and not have a specialty?
I ordered a Frankenstein. This was a mint chocolate-chip ice cream mixed with absinth. Alba, on the other side, decided for the Fictitious Galaxy, a chocolate cookie, coffee and whisky cream combo. The prices are quite reasonable and you wont get tipsy with a single scoop (much).
After all, my extra time in the capital turned out to be quite entertaining, to say the least (it had been a while since the last time I got home at 5:00 am). I know I’ve been quite specific about my adventures in this place, but you can always check this amazing article about things to do in Mexico City if you want a complete guide with tons of information for foreigners.
I guess I’ll see you on the road,